Words by Hannah O’Keeffe

Edited by Rachel Hambly and Bailey Tolentino

Devon Lee Carlson for Russh Magazine (Source: Fruity Booty)

Underwear: an essential yet rarely displayed in public. While most of the mainstream undergarment market focuses on nude tones, no-show fits, and any possible techniques for discretion, a growing segment of the industry has begun to chart a different course. Contemporary consumers are seeking authenticity and transparency from brands, looking to leave behind unattainable beauty standards.

The fashion industry has always run with the idea that ‘sex sells,’ with origins we can trace back even to Victorian England, when women wore corsets so tight that they were sacrificing their health to appease men. Nevertheless, the modern rise of feminism has brought fresh expectations from consumers, reshaping the industry. Women are beginning to dress in a way that feels powerful, rather than palatable, commanding attention through their presence. This cultural pivot is pushing designers to experiment with silhouettes, textures, and fits that prioritize agency and individuality.

Brands such as Fruity Booty, founded in 2017 by Newcastle University graduate Hattie Tennant, have transformed the undergarment category from its long-held associations with neutral tones and form-fitting materials to a more whimsical, female-centered outlook. The label calls itself a ‘female-led project’ with an ‘experimental approach to design.’ While they sell a variety of apparel, their main focus is bras and underwear, hence the label’s name. Tennant herself describes Fruity Booty as being inspired by the fact that she found it strange that neither she nor her friends were wearing underwear that actually reflected their style or values, or made them excited to put it on. This oversight helps explain the currently emerging change in the industry. The fashion industry is built on the idea that people choose to express their identity and personal values through their clothes, so it seems counterintuitive that the same reasoning isn't reflected in underwear designs.

Maria Baza in Fruity Booty (Source: Meerma.Earth)

The growing cultural effort to ‘decenter’ men in women’s lives is central to this industry shift. Emphasis on the female gaze, often a feminist attempt to combat the patriarchal views and gender norms of society, leads women to dress for themselves, rather than for external approval. Moreover, research shows that advertising that links female empowerment to its products, known as ‘femvertising,’ receives a more positive response from women than ads that promote traditional beauty ideals do. Amelia Goldsmith, a TikTok influencer with over 400k followers for her journey to decentering men, often talks about how that choice has strengthened her confidence in her identity and restored a sense of control in her life. This same idea of reclaiming identity connects to a broader pattern: men’s boxers often showcase bold prints and unusual personality quirks, such as dinosaur prints and cheeky phrases. At the same time, women’s designs remain confined to the same invisible, minimal designs, like unlined bras and seamless thongs, which were in demand a few years ago.

Another central force in the industry’s transition is the focus on sustainability and ethical working conditions. In the UK, statistically, women demonstrate a stronger effort to live more ethically than men. US-based label Rat Boi launched its first line of undies and basics in 2020, with what would become hallmarks of the brand — its signature lace trim and satin rose. Alexa Coughlin founded Rat Boi in 2019 after a seven-year career in environmental documentaries. Her time in the film industry left her with core ethical values and firsthand experience of the importance of sustainable intentions. While sustainability is certainly not a solely feminist effort, it is intrinsically linked to gender inequality. Women are disproportionately affected by low-wage labour and the exposure to harmful materials in unsustainable production practices. The views of the currently standing patriarchal models as the ‘gold standard’ are outdated and allow exploitation and waste production in the fashion industry to continue.

Founder of Rat Boi, Alexa Coughlin (Source: Voyage LA)

The underwear industry is only a small part of a quiet revolution taking place in fashion - a fight for more dynamic, inclusive, and empowering design choices to be made for female consumers. As female-led brands champion this trend with experimental designs and ethical production processes, they begin to set new standards that the rest of the market will inevitably be forced to follow. A future where comfort, creativity, and consciousness thrive is one in which an outdated industry finally puts people above profit.

‘I See London, I See France…’ - The Feminine Politicization of Underwear