Words by Hannah O’Keeffe

Edited by Rachel Hambly and Bailey Tolentino

The PHAEOPHYCEAE Top by Alicia Valdes (Source: Alicia Valdes)

Synthetic materials make up over two-thirds of the fabric currently used in the garment industry and their production is incredibly carbon-intensive. Not only are they an environmental faux-pas, but cheap materials like polyester have led to designs that feel exhaustive and cheap. As new challenges present themselves in the fashion industry, innovators are forced to pave a new path, and it’s the young generation of designers that seem to be taking the lead on climate change.

In recent years, fashion’s environmental toll has transformed from a whisper to a global conversation. As consumers grow more conscious of the environmental toll their clothing purchases may take, sustainability has shifted from a niche concern to a mainstream expectation. The allure of raw, responsibly sourced materials has never been higher, and it’s reshaping modern fashion.

Algae yarn, though more widely referred to as ‘Bio-Yarn,’ is a biodegradable yarn made from alginate, the biopolymer extracted from algae, seaweed, or kelp. It is one of the novel materials leading the raw material movement, with incoming and established designers alike beginning to experiment with it. Often used as a base for knitting and crochet, others have taken the alginate and extended its versatility.

Based in Paris, designer Alicia Valdés, has attracted over 50,000 followers on Instagram for her use of biomaterial in clothing and jewelry. Her passion is driven by her work’s deep connection to nature, and has led her to finding new solutions in the textile industry. She claims to work at the intersection of bio-design and materials, circular textiles, fashion, and art. Valdés’ recent work has been aimed towards bio-jewlery development, a process which requires rounds of experimentation and adaptation for her to be able to process these materials effectively. Not only does her use of alginate reflect the adaptability and sustainability of her products; but her designs are visually stunning, with the same intricacy and technicality as any other material design.

Alginate Experimentation for Bio-Jewelery Concepts (Source: Alicia Valdes)

The manipulation of unprocessed materials by designers is a phenomenal display of fashion’s interdisciplinary nature. Many of the processes used to take raw materials and create yarns, leathers, or natural fibres require scientific experimentation. Mylo, a leather derived from mushroom roots, was engineered to grow in vertical farms with 100% sustainable power, creating a soft and supple replica leather. Though this innovation often seems to be led by independent designers and startups, it is clear that large-scale brands have begun to take notes. Lululemon, Adidas, and Kering are some of Mylo’s most recent and notable investment partners. Investments aren’t the only way that large brands are getting involved. In 2022, Stella McCartney launched their first bag made from Mylo. ‘The Frayme Shoulder Bag’, listed at over £1,800, was the first of Stella McCartney’s ambitious plan to incorporate Mylo into its main collection of bags from 2023 onwards.

While these name brands are making changes in the right direction, some brands started off on the right foot and founded their labels on using these fabrics. SKIN SERIES by Rosie Broadhead is one of the most ambitious and noble projects the sustainability frontier has seen in decades. Her mission is to create form-fitting clothing that provide skin-health benefits, alike to those of skincare products. Studying an MA in ‘Material Futures’ at Central Saint Martins, she discovered a process of weaving probiotics onto fabrics. Her garments, sported by Kylie Jenner, actively encourage skin cell growth and naturally resist odor, meaning they do not tend to be washed as often as the average clothing piece — furthermore helping eliminate water waste. Her alternative solution to fighting chemical use in fashion has opened up an entirely unique design methodology.

SKIN SERIES Bodysuit (Source: No Kill Mag)

In these changing times, the fashion industry will be forced to adapt, and the rise of unprocessed textiles is a refreshing alternative to the synthetics currently ruling the modern market. Not only are these raw materials incredibly biodegradable, but they offer unique design challenges in what can often feel like a tired industry. They challenge designers and labels alike to slow down and rediscover the art of craftsmanship: a reminder that the industry could really use right now. In a time where design philosophies often feel surface-level, the return to natural textiles can offer something truly radical, a reconnection with true artistry.

The Liberating Power of Unprocessed Textiles